Import Direct Ball Joint Part # Bj06011 Review

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PrerunnerVsix [OP] Well-Known Fellow member

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What does the other side look like?
TacoTaco02 Well-Known Member

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What did you torque it to?
Looks tightened way too much. The cotter pivot should exist in the cutouts of the nut.
El Taco Diablo Professional Pinstriper

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This is justmy ii cents...
I would non run that like that. That cotter pin should be way closer to those castle towers. That nut looks like it could back a couple total turns earlier catching on the cotter pin. And tou are right. The boot appears to be MUCH more collapsed than it should be.

Why did you buy new arms? Unless y'all've bashed the old ones on rocks, other than replacing bushings, the arms shouldn't "wear out."

If you lot replaced due to the bushings... accept them back, get your money back, and get a set of Whiteline bushings to printing in your old arms... and put the old ones back on the truck.
El Taco Diablo Professional Pinstriper

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Matt - KN6DZP

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Over torque wouldn't sink the brawl joint stud that far. Merely way for the ball articulation stud to go that far is the pigsty information technology'southward in is not to spec (besides large diameter)
PrerunnerVsix [OP] Well-Known Member

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I didn't get to cease the other side, I called it a day but tomorrow I will install the other command arm. I tightened to 100 ft lbs just as earlier with the former command arm.
Bishop84 Well-Known Fellow member

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I've seen aftermarket cotter pin holes not match upwardly similar that earlier, only information technology looks like its manner out regardless. Are both sides like this?
PrerunnerVsix [OP] Well-Known Fellow member

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Yup, I figured the actress price to supersede the unabridged thing was worth my time trying to printing the bushings in and out.
PrerunnerVsix [OP] Well-Known Member

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I'll cease the other side tomorrow and see how information technology sits
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Pressing those bushings is not really equally hard as people make information technology out to be. A small canteen jack pressing them out from the inside towards the outside is not as well bad. (there are a couple videos on youtube, I think, that show it)
PrerunnerVsix [OP] Well-Known Fellow member

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Cheers for the input everyone, I may end up reusing my erstwhile control arm with new bushings in it so. But I'll encounter how the other side goes first. Cheers again
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Reserected from the dead.

That'southward the wrong brawl joint or the wrong A arm. Yous demand to measure your old ones.
I would compare the new parts to the old.
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That hole is hard to mensurate as it is tapered. Not sure what is wrong simply information technology does not look right. It is remotely possible that the lower control arm was machined incorrectly.
That is definitely not correct, and demonstrates why store brand parts are inferior. Those are not to spec.
Why did yous replace the arm(s)?

If it's merely because you need new bushings, this is a common scam that dealers and mechanics attempt to pull on people:

Their bushings are worn, simply they tell the customer they need to control arms. They do this because they are too lazy to press in new bushings (which takes like 5 minutes). The new LCAs have preinstalled bushings, so they salve themselves time by charging Yous more money for the easier-to-install part.

A couple ways you tin can easily practise your own bushing replacements and save a bunch of money.

ane) go free energy suspension poly bushings. Burn out the old rubber and slide the poly into the existing steel sleeve (poly bushings make your steering and suspension more precise, but the ride might feel a flake more harsh)

2) Become yourself some new OEM way rubber bushings, and take the LCAs and bushings to a shop. Throw the mechanic a $20 and a 6 pack and he'll press them in for you.

3) Practice the bottle jack press method, or use a vice, or if you know someone with a harbor freight printing...
agalloch07 Well-Known Member

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Aftermarket ball joints and tie rod cease cotter pin holes always do this on every vehicle i have e'er worked on and i have never had a problem.
Every ball articulation y'all've washed doesn't have the cotter pin engaging the castle nut???
agalloch07 Well-Known Fellow member

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90% of them and i utilise MOOG joints not the cheap stuff. It'south not ideal but the nut is still not going to fall off and the castle nut eventually rusts information technology's self in place. I have never had one come loose or fall off.
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The Moog unit of measurement I installed on my truck last year did not look like that.
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The indents of the castle nut should e'er line up with a hole for the cotter pin. Parts like these are always tightened to the specified torque and then you are instructed to always slowly tighten the nut until you're able to install the cotter pin.
I installed Moog lower balljoints and tie rod ends a month or two ago and had no issues.